On a half sheet of paper, summarize one area of physics we already discussed and that you explored during Christmas Break.
1. Discussion about physics and Break
2. Discussion about Transverse and Longitudinal Waves
Answer the following 7 questions as they relate to the figure below. The data was collected from Dr. VanDorn in 1974 and is still cited in various publications today.
- 1. Where are the fastest waves in the ocean located? Explain your answer.
- 2. The surf zone is a near shore part of the ocean known by local surfers as the best spot to find waves. In this zone, the bottom protrudes upward and reefs, rock features, and sandbars reduce the depth to around 5 meters. What is the typical wave speed in the surf zone?
- 3. Surfers also love long wave periods between waves because it provides them with enough time to make it out past the impact zone. How much distance is there between waves in the surf zone at a 13 second period?
- 4. There are two well known deep water surf breaks (Jaws in Maui and Mavericks in California) In these two spots the water is around 20 meters deep. According to the graphs below, how fast would a 200 meter long wavelength be traveling at either one of these surf breaks?
- 5. What is the relationship between wave period and phase velocity in the deep ocean?
- 6. What is the relationship between wave period and wavelength in the deep ocean?
- 7. A stand up paddle boarder notices that the wave period of a shallow wave and a wave in 20 meter deep water have the exact same period. What would the velocity of each wave be in this event?